According to Wikipedia, Zardozi or Zar-douzi (Persian and Urdu: زَردوزی, Hindi: ज़रदोज़ी) work is a type of embroidery in Iran, India and Pakistan and Zardozi is a Persian word that means Sewing with gold string. It is claimed that Zardozi embroidery has been in existence in India from the time of the Rig Veda. An Iranian website aftabir.com claims that around 105 BC the Chinese emperor sent Zardozi embroidered pieces of cloth to the Iranian emperor with his emissaries. The word 'Zardozi' is made up of two Persian terms, Zar meaning gold and Dozi meaning embroidery. The Persian embroidery form, Zardozi attained its summit in the 17th century, under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar. Under the rule of Aurangzeb, it is said, the royal patronage stopped and this led to the decline of the craft. Since the cost was high and raw materials quite rare, craftsmen could not carry on with the embroidery on their own.
Many craftsmen left Delhi and went to the courts of Rajasthan and Punjab in search of work. With the 18th and 19th century bringing industrialization, the craft suffered another setback. It was only after receiving independence in the year 1947 that the Indian government undertook steps to promote Zari embroidery. Lucknow, Bhopal, Hyderabad, Delhi, Agra, Kashmir, Mumbai, Ajmer and Chennai are the main centres of Zardozi work in India.
As reported by jagranjosh.com, Business India, Wikipedia etc Lucknow Zardozi became a full fledged brand after being accorded with the Geographical Indication (GI) registration by Chennai- based GI Registry. GI is basically a sign or name which is used on certain products which relate specifically to a geographical location or the origin, which can be a town, region or the country.
Zardozi is not merely a needlecraft but a vestige of an opulent bygone era. An embroidered extravaganza in gold and silver threads embellished with precious stones and crystals patterned on velvet, chiffon, crepe, silk, evoking the nostalgia of an exotic past. During the last three decades, some claim that one has witnessed a resurgence in the production of Zardozi embroidered clothes after their induction as ethnic couture in the bridal wear, fashion and glamour industry of India and abroad. This has created, they say, a huge local demand and an export boom to the Middle East and Europe.
The plight of the artisan however remains the same rather worsened. As per our own estimates an average Zardozi Sari, may go to the ultimate customer for something like INR 75 k to 80 K, in the local showrooms. But the money does not percolate to the actual artisan. Same is true for the Chikan workers also. For an intricately embroidered floral design as per an estimate they get INR 3 or INR 2 only. Why?
No preconceived judgemental reply will be fare. And no effort to mitigate their situation will be fruitful in absence of a systematic and methodical scientific study of the situation.
Many craftsmen left Delhi and went to the courts of Rajasthan and Punjab in search of work. With the 18th and 19th century bringing industrialization, the craft suffered another setback. It was only after receiving independence in the year 1947 that the Indian government undertook steps to promote Zari embroidery. Lucknow, Bhopal, Hyderabad, Delhi, Agra, Kashmir, Mumbai, Ajmer and Chennai are the main centres of Zardozi work in India.
As reported by jagranjosh.com, Business India, Wikipedia etc Lucknow Zardozi became a full fledged brand after being accorded with the Geographical Indication (GI) registration by Chennai- based GI Registry. GI is basically a sign or name which is used on certain products which relate specifically to a geographical location or the origin, which can be a town, region or the country.
Zardozi is not merely a needlecraft but a vestige of an opulent bygone era. An embroidered extravaganza in gold and silver threads embellished with precious stones and crystals patterned on velvet, chiffon, crepe, silk, evoking the nostalgia of an exotic past. During the last three decades, some claim that one has witnessed a resurgence in the production of Zardozi embroidered clothes after their induction as ethnic couture in the bridal wear, fashion and glamour industry of India and abroad. This has created, they say, a huge local demand and an export boom to the Middle East and Europe.
The plight of the artisan however remains the same rather worsened. As per our own estimates an average Zardozi Sari, may go to the ultimate customer for something like INR 75 k to 80 K, in the local showrooms. But the money does not percolate to the actual artisan. Same is true for the Chikan workers also. For an intricately embroidered floral design as per an estimate they get INR 3 or INR 2 only. Why?
No preconceived judgemental reply will be fare. And no effort to mitigate their situation will be fruitful in absence of a systematic and methodical scientific study of the situation.
We intend to spearhead such a study and invite all those - especially people trained in research methodology in sociological, economic, and market research - who are interested in joining hands with us on a voluntary basis to contact us. Their efforts and contributions will get due recognition (but no monetary reward).
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